Fez
Brief history of Fez The oldest of Morocco’s four imperial capitals and the most complete medieval city of the Arab world, Fez stimulates all the senses: a barrage of haunting and beautiful sounds, infinite visual details and unfiltered odours. It has the French-built Ville Nouvelle of other Moroccan cities – familiar and contemporary in looks and urban life – but a quarter or so of Fez’s one-million-plus inhabitants continue to live in the extraordinary Medina-city of Fez el Bali, which owes little to the West besides electricity and tourists. More than any other city in Morocco, the old town seems suspended in time somewhere between the Middle Ages and the modern world. When the city’s founder, Moulay Idriss I, died in 791 AD, Fez was little more than a village on the east bank of the Oued Boukhrareb. It was his son, Idriss II, who really began the city’s development, at the beginning of the ninth century, by making it his capital and allowing in refugees from Andalusian Cordoba and from Kairouan in Tunisia – at the time, the two most important cities of western Islam. The impact of these refugees on Fez was immediate and lasting: they established separate, walled towns on either riverbank (still distinct quarters today), and provided the superior craftsmanship and mercantile experience for Fez’s industrial and commercial growth. It was at this time, too, that the city gained its intellectual reputation – the tenth-century Pope Sylvester II studied here at the Kairaouine University, technically the world’s first, where he is said to have learned the Arabic mathematics that he introduced to Europe. The seat of government – and impetus of patronage – shifted south to Marrakesh under the Berber dynasties of the Almoravids (1062–1145) and Almohads (1145–1248). But with the conquest of Fez by the Merenids in 1248, and their subsequent consolidation of power across Morocco, the city regained its pre-eminence and moved into something of a “golden age”. Alongside the old Medina, the Merenids built a massive royal city – Fez el Jedid or New Fez – which reflected both the wealth and confidence of their rule. Continued expansion, once again facilitated by an influx of refugees, this time from the Spanish reconquest of Andalusia, helped to establish the city’s reputation as “the Baghdad of the West”. After the fall of the Merenids, Fez became more isolated under the Saadians and Alaouites, and French colonial rule allowed the city little more than a provincial existence. Despite the crucial role the Fassis played in the struggle for independence (a time brought to life in Paul Bowles’ novel The Spider’s House), Mohammed V retained the French capital of Rabat, condemning the city to further decline. If UNESCO had not inscribed it onto their World Heritage list in 1981, it seems likely that much of the old city would have been threatened by extensive physical collapse.
Fez boasts intricate mosaics adorning ancient schools and mosques, contrasting beautifully with the rough brown stone walls. Narrow avenues, too uneven for carts and too narrow for cars, are laden with everything from propane tanks to tanned leather to cases of soda. Brilliant swaths of woven cloth and shimmering lamps outside tiny shops illuminate the shaded streets. While much has evolved since Fez’s founding, the city remains deeply rooted in tradition.
Often cooked with a generous myriad of spices, dishes in Fez are big on flavour. Whether you’re grabbing a snack from a street vendor or enjoying fine dining at an exquisite riad, chances are you will come across dishes seasoned with exotic saffron, mace, or the celebrated Moroccan spice mixture ras el hanout. This Fez food and drink guide highlights the must-try bites and beverages in the bustling city.
Festivals and celebrations are also key drivers of tourism, promoting Morocco's image around the world. The city offers numerous events throughout the year
Fez's musical scene is a captivating blend of ancient traditions and contemporary influences. The city is renowned for its spirited performances of Andalusian music, a genre that traces its roots back to Moorish Spain. This classical form, characterized by intricate melodies and poetic lyrics, is often showcased in the medina's historic venues, transporting listeners to a bygone era. Beyond Andalusian music, the streets of Fez echo with the rhythmic beats of Gnawa music, an Afro-Moroccan fusion that captivates audiences with its hypnotic percussion and entrancing chants. As the sun sets over the ancient city, the melodies of local musicians drift through the narrow alleys, creating a magical ambiance for all to enjoy.
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